Posted on March 10, 2011 - by Vic

Island hopping Adventure in Surigao

Text and Photographs by Vic Albornoz Lactaoen

I wanted to cleanse myself of Metro Manila and all the sordid things in life it hosts – ceaseless yakkity-yak of politics, corruption and daily bombardments on our collective consciousness of images on television of stern-looking bespectacled military –like crooks masquerading as public servants, among other weird offerings on broadcast media.

Friends have long told me of this paradisiacal group of islands called Surigao which is in the northeastern tip of Mindanao. And in my previous visits, I’ve always never tired of coming back to Surigao feeling like there’s always something new to visit and look forward to. After throwing some t-shirts and shorts into my travel bag, I took off to the wild blue yonder.

When the Almighty created His world, He must have had visions of how He wanted it to be, and most of what this vision was is embodied in Surigao. It’s a place of untouched natural splendor. From its pristine white sandy beaches to its lush tropical forests, from its hilly enclaves and lagoons with warm and shallow surroundings to its coral reefs and lakes, Surigao is truly an island paradise, perhaps the most beautiful in the Caraga administrative region.

The unspoiled teardrop shaped island is the Shangri-La of adventure and nature lovers. It is also the surfing capital of the Philippines which is 800 kilometers southeast of Manila.

Surigao City is the capital of the province of Surigao del Norte, the entry point to northern Mindanao. It is a crowded, busy and developing city, with close beaches on the city’s “island barrangays” worth a beach enthusiast’s stay or visit. Though overlook, these island barangays are worth not just a day’s visit but a couple of days stay to experience Suriganon’s hospitality at its best!

There is a group of islands within easy day-tour reach of Surigao City. One can start off with Basul Island close to the Maharlika National Road, just a brief boat ride from the Maharlika Pier. Or you can go to Hikdop Island, 45 minutes away by a public pumpboat that leaves every morning. The island has good beaches and from here one can connect to Nonoc Island and start on a trek on the longest wooden bridge in the Philippines. This extraordinary 391 meter footbridge called the Cantiasay-San Pedro Foot Bridge, connects with Sibale Island. Conceived to ease movements and communications between two barangays, the bridge has transformed itself into a resting and promenade area, giving one the exhilarating experience and thrill of crossing two islands on foot.

But what made our visit to this island province a memorable one was our trip to nearby Zaragoza and the distant Pansukian Island. This is perhaps one of the few remaining destinations in the country where unquestionable hospitality is at its prime. Homestays are the penultimate mode of accommodations with “Bahay Turista” or Tourist Home, are the right address in the island. Where else can you find complimentary natural drinks of fresh coconut juice served in its natural shell upon arrival? Sometimes, if the locals are having fun-filled days, they even have “drink all you can” coconut – compliments of the islanders.

The island’s proximity to the Philippine Deep, coupled with the huge swells of the Pacific is what gives Siargao its world class waves, attracting surfers from all over the world. In fact one enamored surfer from Australia has begun building a resort in one popular surf spot called Cloud 9 in General Luna, not far from Pansukian. But as I’ve found out through the years, a visit to Siargao at nearly any time yields the same kind of exhalation.

Tourism has seeped its way into the area, thanks mostly to surfing (or no thanks depending on your perspective) but from the looks of it, modish restaurants, and spas are still along way coming. The developments in the island are mostly of the small-town variety and have not made a dent on Siargao’s homey charm. While making a name from surfing, it offers so much more, like charming islets, mangrove swamps, caves and some of the country’s best white sand beaches. What is truly wondrous about this place as I always enjoyed discovering to my every visit is that it has some of the very best of God’s gift to the country: coral reefs, powdery white sand beaches, lagoons with water colored an aquamarine hue so striking it seems to jump at your face, mangrove rivers, rice fields, rainforests, abundant marine resources, exotic flora and fauna.

The more luxurious accommodation can be had at neighboring Pansukian beach resort, dubbed by international design magazine as one of the best resorts in Asia. Each of the resort’s 10 guest cottages is put together in concrete, darkwood, treated bamboo and other natural materials as well in what can only be described as an amalgam of the best in Asian design. The cottages are roomy, with large beds, spacious bathrooms, and natural air-conditioning. The bigger rooms have a relaxing veranda. The resort gives you the impression that guests of the resort are mostly world-weary, well – traveled individuals who comes to the resort wanting nothing more than to kick off their shoes and walk barefoot through the soft silky white sands and of course visit the postcard-pretty islands nearby.

Here, one may find limestone rocks covered with foliage that spring from shimmering clear bluegreen waters as well as stingless jellyfish similar to those that can be found in Palau Islands in Micronesia .Diving through the surface of this underground lagoon where the sun’s rays rebound across the domed walls leaves even the most jaded beach bum breathless.

Food spread throughout my visit was all the freshest catch and ingredients of the day – move over organic farming! We had grilled seafood specialties, squids, kinilaw and the freshest crabs harvested in the island. All prepared by the island’s local cooks. Truly a meal, not to be forgotten!

Then there’s the island’s people – not just the local ones but fellow visitors, local surfers from all over the country, as well as foreign ones from as far as Germany, Austria and Switzerland, who have been touched by the island. To walk around and hear various calls of “when did you get in?” and “where are you staying?” to see the kids who only a few years back were smaller and are now tall young teens – adds to the enhancement of being there.

Once you’ve been touched by Siargao’s brand of magic, it is not hard to imagine how such a distant island has managed to capture your heart. With all these experiences, how can you leave the islands of Surigao? I’ll definitely come back to this Island of adventure!